The End or the Beginning

Thirty-three days. Seven hundred and ninety kilometers (594 miles). Mountains climbed. Rivers forded. Beautiful skies. Torrential rain. Cooling breezes. Blazing temperatures. Dozens of people from around the world befriended and now lifelong friends. 

It's been quite a journey. 

I had a restless night last night. It was hot, but that was not the cause. I think that it's because the incredible adventure was coming to an end. 

Therese and I rose early and left in the dark, a few minutes behind Melissa and Jamie and Katie. We walked quietly though very dark forested trails under the eucalyptus trees. 

We walked quickly and came together with the group just before a coffee stop. Together, we walked the last few kilometers into Santiago. Melissa was on a mission and was passing dozens and dozens of "day pilgrims" who started their walk at the edge of town to get the Camino experience.

As we entered the old part of centro Santiago, we could glimpse the spires of cathedral between the buildings. We were getting close. 

Down a couple of narrow, winding streets, under a bridge, through a tunnel, down a set of stairs and we were in the grand plaza of the cathedral. Many of our Camino friends who arrived earlier or yesterday were there greeting fellow travelers -- Vera came running up to give us a hug; Leone was there; Singing Phil; Dark Phil; Larissa; Chris and Bonnie; and others. It was quite a welcoming committee. 

Here's a video just after our arrival at 10:00. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zhi_VWP6Dk4&sns=em

The famous Pilgrim Mass is at noon every day at the Cathedral. It gets very crowded with arriving peregrinos and tourists. We decided to go into the church at 11:00 to get seats. Even at that time it was crowded and we were near the back row to the right side of the main alter. 

Mass was an elaborate affair with a band, multiple priests, and the bishop presiding. The highlight of the Mass was at the end when they used the giant incense burner, known as the butofumeiro.  It takes eight men to operate and purportedly was used to cover the stench of the filthy pilgrims in the Middle Ages. Some things never change. Check this out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwvzqQn1v_k&sns=em

After Mass, we got our Compostella at the Pilgrim's Office (in Latin and suitable for framing).  Then we found our hotel. It is a lovely, small renovated place but it has no air conditioning and our room is on the top floor. It's pretty hot, but we're used to it by now and they will change us to a better room tomorrow. 

Tonight, we will gather with our Camino comrades for celebrations, drinks, dinner and farewells. It will be bittersweet. 

Therese and I have reserved the daily good intentions of the last day of our Camino for ourselves. We decided to make this journey at a time of transition in our lives. We are crossing from the predictable world of working to the unknowns of retirement. While we are off to a magnificent start, we know that every moment won't be like the last five weeks. We've had a lot of time (really a lot some days) for reflection during this trip and think that we will be fine. But we will need your help. Keep us in your thoughts and prayers. 

Buen Camino.