Life in the Albergues

We've been staying most nights in albergues, hostels for the peregrinos. There are extensive systems of these facilities run by municipalities, churches, Camino associations and private individuals. They cost between €5-10 per night and you need the Peregrino Credencial to stay. Your Credencial is stamped at each location so the hospitaleros know that you have been walking the route.

The accommodations are similar: bunk beds, anywhere from 4 to 50 per room, share shower and bathroom facilities, laundry tubs, sometimes washers and even dryers, often kitchens to prepare meals, and outside patios. Some of the albergues have bars and serve food and beer and wine. 

We have stayed in some very nice albergues as well as some not so nice (to be kind). The dorm-style lodging makes for some interesting arrangements. Living and sleeping in the same room with up to 50 other people, often inches away, requires one to be flexible and go with the flow. 

Probably the biggest problem with this communal living is to sleep through the snoring at night. And there are some major snorers. The worst ones have a Camino reputation and you try to avoid staying in the same albergue, or at least the same room, as them. Some time you can't avoid it, however. An essential piece of gear are well-fitting earplugs. 

But the albergues are great places for meeting and socializing with the fellow peregrinos. It really great fun meeting people from all over the world. Language is often a bit of a barrier, but cervesa and vino always helps with the translations. It's amazing how you can communicate with a few words of English, Spanish, French, Italian and a lot of hand gestures.  It's great fun. 

Today's good intentions are for Car Pool. We have a great circle of friends that we have grown close to through our children over the past 25 years. Thank you for the great send off and we are using all of going away gifts that you have us.   

On the Meseta

Day 14: Thursday, June 20

After a sleepy day in Burgos, we are on the road again.  While it was nice to take a day off and had our own private room, it was a bit disconcerting to be out of the routine of a Camino day. We even overslept and got a late start this morning because we didn't have the usual rustling of the peregrinos at 5:30 am. 

The early part of the walk out of Burgos was very pleasant through manicured parks and walkways. As we got to the city edge, though, it became more suburbanized and industrial. Then we quickly were in the quiet countryside. 

We are entering another farming region with vast fields of grain crops. The villages are tiny (less than 50 residents) and very sleepy. Even the dogs move slow. 

After an easy 21K walk, we stopped in Hornillos del Camino. The municipal albergue looked sketchy but there was a brand new private albergue that opened today We are in a room with only one other bunk bed. We were part of an opening day celebration with a special meal of the local garlic soup specialty (actually, it's pretty good), wine, bread, fruit and Cava, Spanish sparkling wine. Here is a pic of the first night of peregrinos. The owner is on the bottom row, second from the right. 

The downside of being in such an out of the way location is that there is no WiFi or even reliable cell service which is unusual.  So you'll be seeing this post a day late. 

Since we had a rest day in Burgos, we are behind our traveling companions of last week. There are some familiar faces, including Lorena and Ester with whom we are sharing the room, but mostly new ones.  We will now have a new set of friends and travelers. 

Day 15: Friday, June 21

It was an easy 20K walk today, quite peaceful and beautiful. We started early and walked through the fog in the fields. 

Along the way, we came across the ruins of an old church and convent that spanned the road. In a little niche in the wall, peregrinos had left messages about their journeys. We left one as well. 

The final kilometer into Castrojeriz was really cool with the old village and old castle ruins silhouetted on the hill.

The albergue filled up quickly so it was good that we were there early. There is a pack of American college girls (6+) who arrived acting typically American. Sigh. But Ester, our Spanish friend from the last couple of days is here with us which is nice. 

Therese attracted the local dirty old man (86, he told us) who was copping a feel and said that he didn't care if I was the esposa (husband). Interesting  conversation in our limited Spanish. 

Today's good intentions are for the family of Katie's fiancé, Rich: Anna and Randy, Mark and Anne, Mike, Lauren and the grandmothers. We are thankful that they have welcomed Katie into their midst and enjoy our expanding family. 

Arriving in Burgos

Our 12th day on the Camino was a delightful 22K stroll into Burgos, a major metropolitan area of about 175,000 people. After a week of villages of 20 to 200 people, it was quite a shock. 

We walked the whole way today with Paul, Mike and Herman. Unfortunately, Jesus Maria's injury from yesterday was serious and he has to drop out of the Camino. His wife is driving to pick him up in Ages. It's sad that his sudden injury has forced him to abandon his dream so quickly. 

As we came closer to Burgos, the way became very industrial with a lot of truck traffic. I convinced my doubting traveling companions to take a unmarked alternate route into the city along the river. Although they were reluctant, the last 5K was quite pleasant. Doubters. 

Burgos is  beautiful and historic city. As we got closer to the city center, you could see the amazing spires of the famous cathedral. 

At the cathedral, we parted ways with Paul, Mike and Herman who went to the albergue. Therese and I decided to stay in a hotel and spend an extra day in Burgos. We checked into the Meson del

Cid which is across the plaza from the cathedral. The view from our room is amazing. 

After a nice long, hot shower (and a bath for Therese), we toured the cathedral. The place was quite spectacular and impossible to capture adequately in a photo. The paintings, statuary, gilded alters and carvings are beyond description. It's hard to fathom the cost and manpower to construct. Here's one photo which shows the elaborate ceiling in one of the small auxiliary alters.

In the evening, we met Paul, Herman and Alicia for a farewell dinner as they are going on tomorrow. They need to finish by July 10. We will likely not see them again because they need to push hard to keep their schedule. We will miss our new friends and the varied and deep discussions we've had over the past two weeks. It's hard to say good bye. 

Our rest day tomorrow will be quite welcome. We will heal and re-energize and be ready to get back at it on Thursday. 

Today's good intentions are for the family of our daughter-in-law, Kristen - Maureen, Brian and Jordan.  They have welcomed Matt into their midst with open arms.  We love how he has a wonderful "second" family. 

An Emotional Day

We went to Mass last night in Belorado at one of the two churches in the small village.  All of the old, really tiny Spanish women from the town were there. First was the rosary and then Mass. After Mass, there was a special blessing of the peregrinos by the padre. He selected several people to read the blessing in their native language. 

Therese was select to read in English and was first. She became very emotional reciting why one walks the Camino and could barely make it through. She also had the Irish mum, Geraldine, boo-hoping as well. The padre was very understanding and helped her get through. 

Today's hike totaled 28K to Ages. The second half included three big climbs and the terrain changed from farm lands to woodland.  It was a nice change from the past several days.

Near the end of day, we passes though a small village, San Juan de Ortega (population 20) which had a very nice plaza. 

We planned to stay here but it was a little too sleepy.

We walked on another 4K to Ages, a thriving metropolis of 30 people but with four albergues. We are staying in the municipal albergue, a very nice one but about 30 bunk beds in one room. We connected up with Mike, Herman, Paul and Jesus Maria who are staying next door.

The weather today was very pleasant and cool. We had a bit of rain at the end but not too bad. We are having a nice, easy afternoon in the bar enjoying the company of fellow peregrinos.

Today's good intentions are for Therese's sister, Bernice. She is a caring person being a teacher of special students as well as caring on the tradition of 1034 Short Street. 

Feliz Dia de los Padres

Happy Fathers Day!

We got an early start again today at 6:30. It is very nice walking in the early morning hours in the cool air. It's very peaceful.

We've moved from the wine country into the breadbasket region. Lots of amber waves of grain. 

The villages were tiny today (Sunday) and far between. So there were very few cafes to stop at for cafe con leche and to use the "facilities". This is problematic when you or other pilgrims have to use the facilities. With so many peregrinos, this can create a sanitation issue. This is how they try to control things:

With the 23K completed on our walk to Belorado today, we have now traveled 238K or 148 miles in 10 days. 

Today's good intentions are for all of the fathers in our families and our friends. They serve as fine role models to their children and others. May they continue to do good things.