Closing In On Santiago

Early this morning, we passed the 100K to Santiago marker. After 29 days of walking covering almost 700 kilometers, we are within a couple of days of finishing the Camino. (We plan to walk to Finnesterre, another 150 or so kilometers, but that is bonus miles.)

We left early this morning to beat the afternoon heat. It was dark and foggy and we missed a turn taking us a couple hundred meters in the wrong direction. We had to backtrack to get back on course. It wasn't a big deal, but any extra distance is not welcome at this point. 

The walk was quite pleasant early, through fog and most. It was quiet as well with few peregrinos. We have been staying in small villages and avoiding the large albergues. 

Today we are staying in a small farming village, Gonzar. We can tell there are many active farms every time the breeze picks up. There's not much here: two small albergues and a bar/cafe. But no tienda for groceries. I think that it will be like this until we get to Santiago. 

The weather is getting hotter, as well. This afternoon it is close to 100 degrees. With no air conditioning, I understand the siesta now. 

Today's good intentions are for Therese's bible study and book clubs groups. They are a good people who are interested in and supportive of Therese's adventures. 

The Rain in Spain Falls Nowhere

Day after day, the weather in northern Spain has been gorgeous. Cool crisp mornings, sun breaking through the early morning mist at about 10:00 and then sunny afternoons where it's hot in the sum but delightfully cool I'm the shade. It's almost too monotonous bit I'm not complaining. 

The last time it rained was June 19th when we were in Burgos. That is 16 days of great weather. We are in Galicia now where the typical weather is supposed to beach like Ireland or England -- cool and a lot of rain. All of the pictures I'm the guidebooks show wet trails and peregrinos in ponchos but we rarely see a cloud. It's really unusual so I'll take unusual. 

The start of our walk today was a pretty big climb, but then we had a nice long walk along a dirt path above the clouds. 

We then descended through the mist in the valley and had two hours of walking in very cool conditions though farmlands 

We walked through Sarria, a medium sized city where many people start their Camino. (If you walk at least 100K into Santiago, you can receive the compostella -- the certificate of completion of the Camino.) There will be many more people on the trail now, unfortunately. 

Our 23K walk finished at the top of a hill. Our albergue is a renovated 17th century building with a commanding view of the countryside. We spent a lazy afternoon at the picnic table eating, drinking, reading and chatting with our fellow peregrinos. 

Therese has had this nagging feeling that she hasn't really escaped work at Suntrust even though she's retired now. I think we finally figured it out: the Camino logo which we see on directional signs hundreds of times a day is a abstract representation of a shell. 

It is way too close to this:

Once we figured out the cause, Therese immediately relaxed and hasn't thought about it since. 

In this spirit, today's good intentions are for Therese's former co-workers and friends at Suntrust. She had many interesting jobs over the years at United Virginia, Crestar and Suntrust. But her best experiences were all of her co-workers. 

Independence Day

After a night at the top of the mountain, we had a very pleasant, downhill stroll of 21K to Triacastela today. The early morning views from the high mountain ridges were stunning with the clouds in the valley below and the ridgetops peaking out. 

Along the way, we ran into yet another peregrino statue. 

We are getting closer and closer to Santiago and we are seeing these markers every kilometer. We're on countdown; 83 miles to Santiago. 

We walked though several small farming villages today. You could tell by the sights, sounds and smells.  We came across  this group of farms animals and Therese said, "Let's run with the bulls."  I told her to check below; they ain't bulls. 

Our little Camino group split up during the walk today with people leaving at different times and intending to finish at different towns. Therese and I stopped at a very small albergue in Triacastela. At 14 beds, it was a welcome change from the large municipal albergue from yesterday. So who ends up there in our room? Leone, Canada Mark, Singing Phil and Quick Melissa!  We still all together and having a grand time. 

Today's good intentions are for all of America on this Independence Day. This classic American holiday comes at a great time of year and celebrates what is great about our country. We have been receiving congratulations from our non-American Camino friends all day long. 

Back Into the Mountains

Today's walk was into the mountains of the province of Galicia. Over two days, we have seen major changes in the terrain, weather and culture. Galicians speak their own language, so we need to learn how to read signs again. This afternoon in the albergue, Therese walked into the men's bathroom to take a shower and insisted she was in the right one until I pointed out the urinals. 

We had our usual walking group, Canada Mark, Leone, Therese and me. Singing Phil from Ireland also joined us, which was good. He kept Therese entertained as they tried to figure out the melody to "For the Beauty of the Earth" from church. 

The entire 25K walk was uphill and in the final 7K, we gained 600 meters (2,400 ft.) in elevation. It was tough, but the weather and views were gorgeous. 

Everyone had a good hike and felt great at the end. With four weeks of hiking under our belts, we feel fit and strong. Santiago is getting closer every step. Our fellow peregrinos are getting excited about reaching our goal soon but also a bit sad that it will be over. 

The town we are staying in, Cebriero, and our albergue are at the top of the mountain with gorgeous views and cool breezes. The town has a restored church and shops, which is nice, but it seems to cater to tourists. All in all, though, it is a very nice place. 

The Camino has gotten very busy in the last two days. Spain is on holiday now and many people are starting the Camino at towns within 200K of Santiago.  In addition, there are school groups of 25 to 30 kids walking together. We talked to one young boy this afternoon who asked us for some bread when we were having lunch. I think that it was just an excuse to practice his English with us. He was a very nice young man.  

Today's good intentions are for all of the faculty and staff I worked with over 28 years at VCU, especially the Technology Services group.  I was always impressed and humbled by their hard work and dedication day after day. I am honored to be a part of that group for so many years.  VCU is a great organization. 

Comparison Shopping

In the northern part of Spain where we have been walking for the last month, the basic cost of living (and traveling) is quite low. In the larger cities, costs are a bit higher but not much. All the prices are in Euros (€), so to covert to U.S. dollars increase it by about a third, e.g., €10 = $13.50. The nice thing in Europe is that the price includes tax, so what is on the price tag or menu is what you pay. 

Our lodging expenses have been €5-10 per night per person in the albergues. Hotels generally run €60 and way up per night. Pensions and casa rurals are a little less expensive. 

Food costs are way less than in the U.S., especially in the bars and restaurants.  Almost all restaurants have a Menu del Dia or Peregrino's Menu, a fixed price meal with a starter, entree, dessert, bread and a bottle of wine for €9-12. It isn't always fine cuisine, but it is hearty.  At the coffee shops (bars), the cafe con leches are €1-1.50. Nice pastries are €1. 

We've been trying to cook as much as possible in the albergues because the restaurant food gets tiresome quickly. At the supermercado, we can pick up enough groceries and a couple bottles of wine to feed 4-6 people for €15-20. 

Probably the best deals are beer and wine. At the bars, you can usually get a draft beer for €1-2, a little higher if it is a grande (supersize). Often, the bar will serve a tapas or two with the beer. Here is what Canada Mark and I had at a little neighborhood bar last night for €5 ($6.50). 

Wine is even a better deal. You can get a bottle of decent Rioja for €3, a very good bottle for €5 and and excellent bottle for €10. 

Today, we walked 31K to Pereje, a very tiny village. Last night, the municipal albergue in Villafranca was filled to overflowing. They put mattresses I'm the communal rooms and people were sleeping outside this morning. There were probably 250 people at the albergue. 

Many school groups are starting the Camino in the last 200K. We will need to stay away from the larger albergues for the remainder of our walk. The albergue in quiet Pereje is exactly the type of place  we will need to stay. 

Today's good intentions are for the members and staff of the Downtown YMCA. We have made deep friendships there and the staff are amazing. This Richmond institution is quite remarkable and we are proud to be a part of it. 

The High Point of the Camino

We reached the high point of our Camino this morning, both literally and figuratively.  Everyone woke early today in  order to be at the Cruz de Ferro (iron cross) at dawn. The Cruz de Ferro is at the highest elevation of the Camino at 1,515 meters (4,970 feet). 

The cross is on top of a tall wooden pole on top of a large pile of stones. The stones have been left their by pilgrims for centuries being carried from their homes or starting points.  By leaving the stones at Cruz de Ferro, the peregrino is leaving behind the burdens he has carried for so long. 

Some peregrinos leave messages on their stones. Some leave personal momentos. Others just leave their thoughts. It is a very quiet and reverential spot with everyone in their own thoughts.  You often can hear sniffles and sobs with people having very emotional experiences. It is quite remarkable. 

After Cruz de Ferro, we began a steep decent to Ponferrada for a total of 27K for the day. It was a hard (on the knees), but scenic, hike and we went through some lovely villages. It is a nice change from the pedestrian farming towns of the Meseta. 

On the last few kilometers into Ponferrada, we kept seeing these weird signs on random walls. It was just another unexpected Camino experience.

Today's good intentions are for The Team, my noontime running compatriots for 28 years at VCU -- Coach Forever Bob Davis, Eddie Blanks, George Monroe and Ed Acevedo.  They are a good group of friends who understand why I go on these adventures. 

Hippy Dippy

We have left the plains of the Meseta behind and started back into the mountains today. Our 26K to Foncebadon was gradually  uphill and then a nice, steep climb to the final village. It was good to have a bit of tough hiking from the flats of the past few weeks. 

This town is an abandoned farming village that is being brought back to life for the peregrino trade. It has a long way to go, but the town has a very laid back, 1960s vibe. It has attracted many Spanish dropouts as well as the odd ex-pat from the U.S., Canada, Brazil, etc. Here's our albergue for the night and some of the local traffic. 

Yesterday, we stayed in Astorga, a well-to-do city with another fabulous cathedral. We went over to take a look and came across a wedding inside. 

Since it was Saturday night, everyone was out on one of the several city plazas enjoying the weather and people watching. 

Today's good intentions are for our many nieces and nephews in the Willis and Wisnieski families. You have or are growing into being enjoyable and interesting adults.  You are lots of fun at the family reunions.