Friday, June 21, 2013

On the Meseta

Day 14: Thursday, June 20

After a sleepy day in Burgos, we are on the road again.  While it was nice to take a day off and had our own private room, it was a bit disconcerting to be out of the routine of a Camino day. We even overslept and got a late start this morning because we didn't have the usual rustling of the peregrinos at 5:30 am

The early part of the walk out of Burgos was very pleasant through manicured parks and walkways. As we got to the city edge, though, it became more suburbanized and industrial. Then we quickly were in the quiet countryside. 

We are entering another farming region with vast fields of grain crops. The villages are tiny (less than 50 residents) and very sleepy. Even the dogs move slow. 

After an easy 21K walk, we stopped in Hornillos del Camino. The municipal albergue looked sketchy but there was a brand new private albergue that opened today We are in a room with only one other bunk bed. We were part of an opening day celebration with a special meal of the local garlic soup specialty (actually, it's pretty good), wine, bread, fruit and Cava, Spanish sparkling wine. Here is a pic of the first night of peregrinos. The owner is on the bottom row, second from the right. 



The downside of being in such an out of the way location is that there is no WiFi or even reliable cell service which is unusual.  So you'll be seeing this post a day late. 

Since we had a rest day in Burgos, we are behind our traveling companions of last week. There are some familiar faces, including Lorena and Ester with whom we are sharing the room, but mostly new ones.  We will now have a new set of friends and travelers. 

Day 15: Friday, June 21

It was an easy 20K walk today, quite peaceful and beautiful. We started early and walked through the fog in the fields. 


Along the way, we came across the ruins of an old church and convent that spanned the road. In a little niche in the wall, peregrinos had left messages about their journeys. We left one as well. 




The final kilometer into Castrojeriz was really cool with the old village and old castle ruins silhouetted on the hill.


The albergue filled up quickly so it was good that we were there early. There is a pack of American college girls (6+) who arrived acting typically American. Sigh. But Ester, our Spanish friend from the last couple of days is here with us which is nice. 

Therese attracted the local dirty old man (86, he told us) who was copping a feel and said that he didn't care if I was the esposa (husband). Interesting  conversation in our limited Spanish. 


Today's good intentions are for the family of Katie's fiancé, Rich: Anna and Randy, Mark and Anne, Mike, Lauren and the grandmothers. We are thankful that they have welcomed Katie into their midst and enjoy our expanding family. 








2 comments:

  1. Can't forget about Randy Moore too! We love you guys and are sorry we missed your call this morning: we were just putting my desk into the office. So a good deal of the crap that went into the condo is now out of the condo. So happy that your trip is wonderful.

    Leave it to American Co-eds to ruin everything.

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  2. Therese and Mark, I absolutely love reading your El Camino blog. I don't know if I could do what you are doing but I sure do think it's a cool thing to do. The old hippie in me wishes I'd done something like this decades ago. Love your stories, your pictures, and getting to know you better Therese through this adventure. If you ever get to Atlanta you are welcome to stay here with us. It's not the El Camino but we could show you around here sometime. Enjoy!

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